Much has been written about the importance of good planning to ease the pressure involved in feeding a fairly complex, oven-heavy meal to a small tribe while making it all look (and hopefully feel) as if you, the hard-working host, are having a ball. This is why Christmas desserts tend to be designed to be made ahead of time, to be served straight from the fridge or ready to be popped into the post-turkey oven. As a result, I’m a firm believer that you should pull out all the stops and make a real showstopper of a pudding that’s ready to be “magically” produced.
Pastis gascon
This French apple tart is incredibly crisp on the outside (the result of the dusting of sugar between the filo layers), yet wonderfully soft and boozy on the inside. You can make it a day ahead and reheat before serving. Quince, combined with apple, makes for a delicious twist, if you’re looking for one. The marzipan isn’t traditional, but tastes spectacular and makes total sense in a Christmas setting.
Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr 40 min
Serves 6
For the filling
2 small pink lady apples, peeled, halved, cored and cut into 1cm slices (200g net weight)
2 small granny smith apples, peeled, halved, cored and cut into 1cm slices (200g net weight)
50g soft pitted prunes, cut into 1cm pieces
70g marzipan, cut into 1cm pieces
1 tbsp lemon juice
3 tbsp caster sugar
60ml armagnac
To finish
12 sheets filo pastry (250g packet)
80g caster sugar
125g unsalted butter, melted
2 tbsp armagnac
10g icing sugar, for dusting
180g creme fraiche, to serve
Heat the oven to 180C (170C fan)/375F/ gas 5 and put a rack in the lower third of the oven. Use a little melted butter to grease the base and sides of a 26cm x 4cm tart tin with a removable base. Cut a 42cm x 6cm strip of baking paper and lay it in the base of the tin so it hangs over the edges on each side (you’ll use this to lift out the tart later). In a medium bowl, toss all the filling ingredients.
Put the filo sheets under a slightly damp, clean cloth to stop them drying out, then brush one sheet with some of the melted butter and sprinkle with a teaspoon and a half of sugar. Transfer to the tin, pressing the sheet into the base and sides so it fits snugly; let any excess hang over the sides. Repeat this process with five more sheets of filo, rotating them slightly when you press them into the tin, so the excess hangs out at a different angle.
Fill the filo case evenly with the apple mix, then fold over the excess filo to cover the edges of the tart.
Take another sheet of filo, brush with melted butter and sprinkle with a teaspoon and a half of sugar. Roughly scrunch it up like a tissue, then arrange on top of the exposed apples. Repeat with the remaining five sheets of filo, to cover the apples, building height as you go.
Put the tin on an oven tray and bake for an hour and 15 minutes, turning once halfway, until well browned and caramelised; if it colours too quickly, turn down the heat to 170C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4 halfway through baking. Immediately release and remove the sides of the tin and, using the baking paper “sling”, carefully lift and slide the pastis on to a platter. If serving straight away, pour over the armagnac, dust with icing sugar and serve hot or warm with the creme fraiche alongside.
If you’re making the pastis a day in advance, it can be reheated: unmould back on to the lined baking tray and bake at 190C (180C fan)/390F/ gas 6 for 10-12 minutes. Hold back on the armagnac and icing sugar until you’re ready to serve.
Fiona Beckett’s wine pairing suggestion
South-west France has two dessert wines you could pair with this delicious tart - Jurançon or Pacherenc du Vic Bilh. The Co-op has the delicately fruity Domaine de Lasserre Jurançon 2015 for £7 (12%). Or, if you can track one down, try a Pineau de Charentes (£13.75 Yapp Brothers, 17%), which is easier to find than the more authentic Floc de Gascogne.
Chestnut and clementine trifle with Aleppo chilli and orange blossom
There are a lot of steps here, but it’s well worth the effort. Get ahead by making the sponge a day or two in advance, and assemble the trifle in the morning. Or use shop-bought sponge to save time.
Prep 25 min
Cook 2 hr
Chill 3 hr
Serves 10-12
For the sponge
190g caster sugar
35g soft dark brown sugar
½ tsp vanilla bean paste or extract
3 eggs
140g self-raising flour, sieved
½ tsp salt
250g unsalted butter, melted
For the caramelised clementines
16 clementines
3 tbsp cognac
1½ tbsp orange blossom water
⅛ tsp salt
½ tsp aleppo chilli, plus extra for sprinkling (optional)
250g caster sugar
3 tbsp water
For the caramelised chestnuts
180g cooked and peeled chestnuts, roughly chopped
150g caster sugar
2 tbsp water
For the chestnut sabayon
3 egg yolks
1 tsp vanilla bean paste or extract
50g caster sugar
250g mascarpone
100ml double cream, plus 600ml whipped to soft peaks
225g sweetened chestnut puree – I use the Clement Faugier brand
3 tbsp cognac
Heat the oven to 180C (170C fan)/375F/ gas 5 and line the base and sides of a 33cm x 23cm swiss roll tin.
For the sponge, put the sugars, vanilla and eggs in the bowl of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment in place. Whisk on high until light and doubled in volume – about eight minutes – then switch to the paddle attachment, add the flour and salt, and mix on low until just combined. Slowly add the melted butter, mix to combine, then tip the batter into the lined tin and smooth out. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until golden brown and a skewer comes out clean, then remove from the oven. Turn down the heat to 150C (140C fan)/320F/gas 2½.
Meanwhile, finely grate the skin of three clementines to get two teaspoons of zest, then juice to get three tablespoons. Use a small, sharp knife to top and tail the other 13 clementines, then cut down their curves to remove the skin and pith. Cut the flesh into ¾cm-thick rounds.
In a bowl, combine the clementine juice, cognac, orange blossom, salt and chilli (if using). Put the sugar and water in a small saucepan on a high heat, stir to mix, then cook for six minutes, gently swirling from time to time, until it turns dark amber. Off the heat, pour in the juice and cognac mix (it will sputter), whisk until incorporated, then tip over the clementine slices and refrigerate.
Put the chestnuts on a tray lined with baking paper and bake for 15-20 minutes, to dry out a little, then leave to cool. Stir the sugar and water in a small saucepan on a high heat, then cook for four to five minutes, swirling, until you have an even, light golden brown caramel. Stir in the chestnuts and cook until the caramel has darkened a little, but not burned. Transfer to a tray lined with greaseproof paper, spread out, leave to cool, then roughly chop.
For the sabayon, put the egg yolks, vanilla and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment in place. Whisk on high until very pale and doubled in volume – five to seven minutes – add the mascarpone, 100ml cream, chestnut puree, citrus zest and cognac, and whisk until smooth and thick.
To assemble, set aside three tablespoons of chestnuts and 10 clementine slices. Cut the sponge into 5cm squares and lay six in the base of a large, 26cm trifle bowl. Spoon on two tablespoons of the caramel and arrange a third of the clementines around the sides and on top of the sponge. Scatter over a third of the chestnuts, then spoon over a third of the sabayon, followed by a third of the whipped cream. Repeat this layering twice more, finishing with the reserved caramel and clementines arranged neatly on top. Chill for three hours, then serve with the reserved chestnuts and, if using, more chilli sprinkled on top.
Fiona Beckett’s wine pairing suggestion
Given this is already quite boozy, you might feel it’s over-egging the pudding to serve a wine with it, but hey, it’s Christmas and Morrisons has a really great value half-bottle of Liberti Dolce Marsala (18%) for just £5 that would work really well.
Sticky fig and coffee puddings with maple toffee sauce
These have all the flavour and texture of a two-hour steamed sponge, but are baked for only half an hour. The puddings and the toffee sauce can both be made a day ahead and reheated before serving.
Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr 20 min
Serves 10
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
165ml strong coffee or espresso
200ml water
250g soft-dried figs, roughly chopped into 1cm cubes
100g unsalted butter, softened
225g demerara sugar
100ml maple syrup
250g self-raising flour
2 eggs
½ tsp salt
6-8 cardamom pods, shells discarded and seeds finely crushed
2 tsp coriander seeds, roughly crushed in a mortar
1 tbsp ground coffee, plus extra to serve
Creme fraiche or ice-cream, to serve
For the maple toffee sauce
125ml double cream
75g unsalted butter
125g soft dark brown sugar
60ml maple syrup
½ tsp flaked sea salt
1 tsp ground coffee
1½ tsp coriander seeds, crushed, for sprinkling
Heat the oven to 180C (170C fan)/ 375F/gas 5. Butter 10 individual 8cm pudding moulds, line the bases with greaseproof paper, then put on a baking tray.
Put the first four ingredients in a medium saucepan on a medium-high flame and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to low and simmer for five to seven minutes, stirring regularly, until the figs have softened and the liquid has thickened a little, then leave to cool completely.
Put the butter, sugar, maple syrup, flour, eggs, salt, spices and ground coffee in the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attached. Mix on a medium-low speed until just combined – about a minute – then add the cooled fig mixture, including the liquid, and mix for a minute more. Divide between the moulds and bake for 25-30 minutes, until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Using a tea towel for protection, carefully turn out the puddings on to individual serving plates.
Mix all the sauce ingredients except the coriander in a small saucepan on a medium-low heat, stir occasionally until the sugar dissolves, then simmer for five minutes more, until slightly thickened.
To serve, top each pudding with a spoonful each of toffee sauce and creme fraiche or ice-cream. Sprinkle with the coriander seeds and extra ground coffee, and serve hot.
Fiona Beckett’s wine pairing suggestion
Tawny port always goes well with toffee flavours: a 10- or 20-year-old or similar Australian “sticky” such as De Bortoli’s Old Boys 21-year-old Tawny (£19.99 The Wine Press, 19%) would be ideal.
